We woke up lazily at 7am, as we didn't need to be at the bottom of the ridge before 9.30am, to get the sun for the actual climbing. The way up was fine: the route was steep enough, so no snow was sticking to the rock. The climbing was quite sustained actually, with many pitches of grade higher than French grade 4 (NZ 12/13, crux grade 16/17), and some easier parts where running belays were possible. The rock was an excellent granite, but difficult to protect, and difficult for me to climb with alpine boots!
The way down was a bit more adventurous, via the south ridge. Unfortunately, the normally easy downclimb was this day made off "wet" slabs, either covered by wet snow or by running water coming from the melting of the snow. Downclimbing was impossible, and we resolved to abseil most of it, sometimes with not so good anchors... We arrived at the hut late-ish, completely wet... As everything would have been of the same kind around, and as the rope were soaked, we made the walk back to the car... The week end ended lazily by some swimming, and a tiny bit of rock climbing on the way back to Fribourg. I guess alpine climbing wasn't the best plan that week end...
* some Alpine rock boots, and a Camalot size 4 for me... Couldn't resist the sales...
3 commentaires:
I want to see photos of your new boots.
Here are my new boots: http://sportiva.com/products/prod/274. There are light and very good for alpine rock climbs! A proof of that is that Travis is jealous of them! ;o)
They sound perfect for you. I always thought you were like "a wood nymph bounding through the mountains". They do sound pretty sweet.
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